I know you have many restaurants, but let’s start with Belcanto. The restaurant itself opened in 1958.
Chef: “Yes, I was very young at that time [laughs].”
Quite young indeed!
Chef: “No, I’m kidding.”
You took over in 2012, was it ever a scary thing to take on an existing restaurant?
Chef: “Actually, my first experience in a fine dining restaurant was at Tavares, one of the oldest restaurants in Europe. When I started there in 2007 it had already been open for more than 220 years. Taking over a place with so much history is not easy, and when we started Belcanto the expectations were very high.
I had already received a star at Tavares, and to be in a place with such heritage, change its concept, and carry the weight of your clients’ expectations… You can imagine the first three months were quite difficult, to say the least.”
How long before you got your first Michelin Star at Belcanto?
Chef: “Seven months.”
Wow. That’s quick.
Chef: “Yeah. In the first year we got it.”
Was it a relief?
Chef: “Of course. In theory it’s always amazing, but it’s also a big responsibility. The biggest difference between receiving a star and winning a gold medal in the Olympics is that the medal stays on your wall forever, but a star can be taken away the very next year. You could lose it in a second, so you always need to work hard to be comfortable with that responsibility.”
And now you have two.
Chef: “[Laughs] Yes, now I have two.”
Because you are so famous in Portugal, have you ever thought of going abroad with the restaurant?
Chef: “Not with a Belcanto-style restaurant, no. Belcanto needs to be unique. But we do have a few projects abroad. For example, next year we’re opening a simpler concept in Dubai.
Our goal is to promote Portuguese gastronomy internationally and showcase what we’re doing right now in Portugal. It’s a big challenge for us.”
What do you think is the biggest misconception about Portuguese food?
Chef: “I think most people believe we only eat Bacalhau [salted codfish], and many don’t really know what Portuguese food is. With the rise in tourism, we now have the chance to show who we really are and what we actually eat.
Portugal has a wide range of regional cuisines, and what we try to do at Belcanto, for example, is take guests on a journey across the country. From north to south, our menu showcases textures and inspirations that celebrate Portuguese gastronomy.”
What must people try when they come to Portugal?
Chef: “Seafood, for sure. They should go to traditional restaurants but also discover young chefs doing modern Portuguese cuisine. And of course, they must try classics like Pastéis de Nata [custard tarts].”
What was your favorite dish growing up?
Chef: “I’ve always loved eating — probably why I started cooking. I prefer savory over sweet and love homey foods, like fresh sausage with cabbage stew: tomato, onions, carrots, cabbage, sausage, and rice.
When I was younger, I really liked Bacalhau à Brás. Now it’s actually one of the dishes we’ve refined in my restaurants. These days, when I’m tired, I stick to very simple food — sometimes just a fresh tomato from the garden with sea salt and olive oil. That’s enough.”
You were born and raised where?
Chef: “Cascais, twenty minutes from Lisbon by the sea.”
What did your mother and father do?
Chef: “My mother was a social worker, helping people with all sorts of problems. My father had restaurants when he was younger, but he was more of a businessman. He passed away when I was seven, so I have only a few memories of him.”
What inspired you to become a chef?
Chef: “Honestly, I never thought I’d be a chef. In Portugal, thirty years ago, the profession wasn’t respected — it was for people who didn’t do well in school. I studied arts, wanted to be an architect, and got a degree in communication and management.
But I always loved to cook. My first kitchen experience was at Fortaleza do Guincho (a Michelin-starred restaurant). The moment I entered the kitchen, I knew that’s where I belonged. That was about fifteen years ago, and since then, everything we’ve achieved has gone beyond even my biggest dreams.”
Now you’re the person kids see on TV as inspiration.
Chef: “Yes, and that’s amazing — but also a big responsibility [laughs]. I’ve learned that nothing comes without challenges. I’m thankful, but I always say we because it’s teamwork.
I’m also lucky to have collaborators who’ve been with me for fifteen years, people who share my passion, challenge my ideas, and help me grow both professionally and personally.”
How do you think being a chef affects your home life?
Chef: “I’m married with two sons. When my youngest was three, he once called me ‘my brother’s father’ because he didn’t realize I was his father too — he hardly ever saw me. That really hurt, and it was the moment I decided to change.
In the last two years, I’ve made family time a priority, scheduling it as seriously as work. My life is much better now. The next challenge is to see my close friends more than once a year.”
Do you travel a lot for work?
Chef: “Yes, I’ve taken nearly fifty flights this year already. I just came back from Dubai, I’m flying to Madrid today, and then to Bangkok soon.”
You did a lot of TV work as well, right?
Chef: “Yes, but I stopped about a year and a half ago. I enjoyed it, but it was very time-consuming. Sometimes I’m not comfortable with such a public life — balancing it with work and family is tough. Maybe I’ll return to TV in the future, but for now, I’m happy with a break.”
You interned at El Bulli under Ferran Adrià. Do you think it’s important for a chef to have a mentor?
Chef: “Yes. You need references — people who inspire you. Ferran Adrià was not only a professional mentor but also a philosopher of life. Having someone to look up to helps you grow and build your own identity.”
You’re completely self-taught as a chef?
Chef: “Yes.”
What do you think you would have done if not a chef?
Chef: “Something related to art — probably an architect.”
What is your process for coming up with new recipes?
Chef: “The creative part is very solitary for me. Inspiration can come from anywhere — while driving, relaxing at home, or even staring at an empty plate. Funny enough, I get the most ideas on planes, probably because my phone is off and I can finally let my mind wander.”
What has been your favorite dish you’ve ever made?
Chef: “One of my favorites is a dish we’ve served for over ten years called Deep in the Sea: sea bass cooked at low temperature with seaweed and mussels. It really feels like you’re underwater, with natural flavors and no need for added salt or fat.”
What would you like your last meal on earth to be?
Chef: “Very simple: a really good tomato with salt and oregano, bread, and olive oil. Or maybe just a humble, flavorful soup.”
What advice would you give a starting chef?
Chef: “Work hard, make sacrifices, and never stop learning. Listen to your guests, not the critics. When you’re young, don’t expect an easy 8-hour day — you need to put in the extra hours. Always keep learning, because it’s never enough.”
Looking ahead, do you have any big goals left in life?
Chef: “I used to say I wanted to be happy, but I’ve learned that happiness is an abstract concept. My goal now is to enjoy life, spend time with my family, and keep making guests happy in my restaurants.
On a personal level, my biggest challenge is raising my kids well — learning from my own mistakes and successes so I can give them the best education possible.”
